Our Winter Week With the Wolves of Yellowstone
(Attempted) Wolf watching requires a very early start, one reward is the sunrise. This is the Soda Butte valley in the Northeast of the park. Image: Thanks to NPS, Jim Peaco.
When most of Yellowstone National Park is closed, researchers, documentarians, and photographers gather… this year we joined them. Five women including me, with our wildlife biologist guide on the first annual Exploring Women’s Winter Wolf Trek or, as a good friend quipped: “Dances with Wolves!”
Greeting the Dawn with Grey Wolves
Editor and Exploring Woman! Roberta Kravette
Eleven we counted, silver-grey to jet black, looking healthy and well-fed.
They flowed effortlessly, single file through the snow, ignoring the herd as they passed neither fast nor slow and continued up the hill parallel to our vantage point.
What: The Exploring Women’s Winter Wolf Trek
Where: Yellowstone National Park
When: Mid-March
Who: Women who want to experience and learn about wolves in the wild
How: Contact me
Black-green forest edged the sparkling white landscape and crystals danced around us in the cold dry air under the pink-streaked the morning-twilight sky. We watched. In the silence of almost sunrise, we might have been characters in a glass snow globe, not standing on the slim pullout alongside a narrow drainage looking down as the Junction Butte Pack trotted purposely across a bison-filled clearing.
One extra-large bison moved away from the herd toward the passing wolves.
We had arrived in Yellowstone days before. Our group of five exploring women unanimously prefer to be warm, but our greater yearning to experience the resourceful, charismatic, and controversial icons of Yellowstone National Park drove us here in mid-March when most of the park is closed. And frozen. Our fortitude in the face of frost was rewarded with wolf watching every day! But, this morning, what was unfolding felt different.
The pack, sated after a successful night's hunt, settled in for a hilltop snooze, each tamping down a cozy circle in the snow. All, that is, but one. Ten wolves, it seemed, had some common sense.
The eleventh, a tall, sleek grey with far too much expendable energy for his own good, turned and made its way back down to the bison - and stopped. In whispered amazement, we estimated only 10 feet (3m) separated them. The two animals silently faced each other.
We adjusted our binoculars and scopes. This was going to get interesting.
Most of the Junction Butte Pack seem to be pretty sensible wolves, hunting by the moon and resting in the sun. Of course there is always one in every family... Image YNP.
Standoff! Wolf Verses Bison
The bison's massive shaggy, fur-covered head hung so low off its colossal shoulder hump that its "goatee" brushed the snow. Its improbably small, emotionless eyes, set high under the base of curved pointed horns, looked down at its antagonist. The grey didn't waiver as twelve hundred pounds of muscle and attitude moved close enough to throw its shadow on his one hundred pounds of ill-advised chutzpah.
Eyes locked, the wolf, tail parallel to the ground, closed the remaining gap. He was now so close he easily could have licked the bison's nose.
The straw-scented breath must have tickled the wolf's nostrils, and the bison could undoubtedly smell the wolf's recent elk meal. This wolf was young; his long legs and impetuous behavior gave him away. Here was not a hungry predator– amazingly, he was just playing a game, testing himself and his opponent. But bison have limited patience. And games go awry.
Nose to nose, wolf and bison stood their ground. Time stopped.
Then, the great shaggy head moved. The wolf took one single step. Backward.
Would he turn and run? And if his opponent charged, would the sleeping pack join their foolhardy relative?
No one moved, our binoculars and scopes glued to the drama. Did we breathe? It did not seem so. Was it cold? I cannot remember. We waited and watched.
Would There be Wolves for the Wolf Trek?
Early winter mornings in Yellowstone are filled with changing light and the promise of surprise.You never know who you might see. Image: ©Roberta Kravette for Destination: Wildlife.
There are no lodges open at this time of year, no welcome center, no roads save the one we were on along Yellowstone's northernmost border and its famous Lamar Valley. But, when snow cover whitens the landscape, and winter-hunger drives elk and pronghorn into the open when tourist crowds are home preparing for spring visits, now when the temperature might dip to -20 and tiny hoar frost diamonds crown the landscape, now is the best time to see the wolves of Yellowstone. And so we are here.
We had begun planning months before, full of excitement and "gear" debate (one doesn't bring mere "clothing" for an expedition!) But as we approached February, the conversation centered on the rising death toll from the newly re-instated legal wolf hunts.
By mid-February, only halfway through the "season," 24 Yellowstone wolves, including the entire Phantom Lake Pack, were dead - shot or trapped legally when they stepped outside of Yellowstone’s border. At least one was a collared wolf proudly killed by Montana's governor. On March 18, ready to board our flight, we sipped coffee – and silently wondered if there would be any wolves left alive to study when we arrived.
Since reintroduction in 1995, Yellowstone's wolf numbers have self-stabilized, averaging about 125 individuals yearly. On the day of the wolf/bison standoff, the estimated population was 90.
Meanwhile, Back at the Standoff
Our teasing wolf must have been young, his elders clearly had more sense. He looked similar to this one, but we are Exploring Women (!)- and alas not photographers, we watched the action and held our collective breath! Image: NPS, Jim Peaco.
The contest of wills continued: a step forward – then a step back, like a slow-motion dance by strikingly unmatched partners. But is this a death waltz? And who's?
While our brash young grey baited his opponent, the rest of his pack, were scattered over the hilltop, napping. Or were they? A glance through the scope revealed pairs of "sleeping” eyes - watching.
Bison are not known for their patience, and this one's mates were getting restless. Finally, two enormous animals left the herd. They walked in unison to the lone bull arraigning themselves, one on each side, shoulder to shoulder.
Are you a woman with an open heart, multiple warm layers, and a spirit of adventure? Contact me about next year’s Exploring Women’s Winter Wolf Trek. Cold but not physically demanding. Let’s talk
The Bison Were Out of Patience
Bison are not known for their sense of humor. Like these, the loan bison’s herd mates stood aware and watching. This image is by Jim Peaco, NPS
Nearly 3 tons of ornery loomed inches away from one cheeky canid. If they stampeded, their path would lead straight toward the resting pack.
Unlike dogs, wolves don't bark or make noise. But like dogs, they do have distinct personalities. Our grey was obviously a tease – but in the furry faces of three against one, even it finally understood that the game was over.
Without adieu, the young cavalier turned 180 degrees and trotted back up the hill, head up, tail erect, decided – but not defeated.
Did the abrupt retreat surprise them? They didn't say. But, the three bison followed as one unit, escorting him for about 5 meters, then they stopped, reversed, and headed back to their herd. Point made.
At last, our impetuous youngster lay down among the others, and the last watching eye finally closed. Adolescence is exhausting for everyone.
Suddenly it was icy cold.
We Exploring Women headed for the vehicle and a welcome thermos of hot coffee.
So far, the wolves of Yellowstone had thrilled us everyday of our time here!
Watching the (Wolf) Kids Have Fun
This image was taken awhile ago by Doug Smith, Project Leader for the Yellowstone Wolf Restoration Project, but it captures the moment right before two adolescent wolf pups leap up out of “nap”mode and into little energized warriors. Note the “innocent” expressions.
Wolves usually hunt at night and rest during the day, but, as any parent knows when they need a nap, it's playtime for the kids. We witnessed the canus lupis version again a few days later at Yancy's Hole when we met up with the Rescue Creek Pack and a couple of gangly "teenagers," big as the adults but still with a pup's shaggy nap hair.
Things began quietly enough, but the temptation was just too great. One big pup lay belly-flopped with a bison skull between his paws. The other saw it and gave a tug; the first, of course, had to answer. The quiet soon erupted with leaping, bowing, chasing, around, through, and over the napping adults… You could almost hear their sighs as one-by-one each got up and moved to more peaceful ground.
We found those same youngsters a few days later chasing each other on the frozen pond at Hell Roaring. They slip-slided back and forth, legs splayed, spinning and crashing and starting again, a vision of pure joy!
Watching the wolves is delightful, but more importantly, we had come to learn – and were not disappointed.
Studying Wolves In the Company of Experts
Author and wolf expert Rick McIntyre took time to share some inside stories with the Exploring Women! That’s our wildlife biologist guide, Brad Bulin (left, glasses on his head), Noreen, Jeanne, Rick and Cheryl and Breda.. Image: ©Roberta Kravette
We spent our wolf-study week in great company. If you are going to study, film, or photograph wolves in the wild, Yellowstone is the place to do it - its wolves are the most visible on the planet. And the park’s winter closing is the best time in the best place. On any given morning our fellow sunrise witnesses might include the Yellowstone Wolf Project, University research teams, an assortment of scientists, filmmakers and photographers, and the renowned author and wolf expert, Rick McIntyre. It was on another pink-streaked morning, as the Junction Butte Pack settled in for their nap, that Rick asked us if we'd like a 5-minute talk on their origin. We were thrilled.
Light-filled the valley as Rick explained how the original Crystal Creek wolves became the famous Molly's, top of the Junction Buttes' ancestral tree. But before the JBs were even a twinkle in the eye, female #42, nicknamed the "Cinderella" wolf, was making her name. That famous lady was the physically smaller, less-aggressive sister of #40, the pack's infamous (“psychopathic” was the word Rick used!) Alpha female. Twenty minutes later, #42’s story left us without a dry eye. She is the subject of Rick's next book. I cannot wait.
We Were Peacefully Watching Pronghorn When …Stampede !
They look sweet with those big eyes and long lashes but when a crazy golden eagle inexplicably dive bombed a herd of about 40 pronghorn causing them to stampede straight at us we all stopped breathing! Image Thanks to Yellowstone National Park.
If sunrise is for wolf watching, we found daytime to be best for elk and pronghorn. Both ungulate species migrate during the fall, many spending the winter in lower elevations outside the park; now in late March, they are beginning to come back.
One morning we stood watching a herd of pronghorn, peacefully grazing on last year's vegetation. They filled the hill above us, close enough to watch without binoculars but well beyond the park's distance parameters. A young golden eagle appeared high in the sky above them, soaring in graceful circles. Jeanne picked up her binoculars for a better look.
There is no telling what a bird is thinking, but this one must have had a plan; otherwise, why would it suddenly decide to dive-bomb a herd of adult and yearling pronghorn?
The herd startled.
In a split second, fifty pronghorn were stamping straight toward us. We must have cried out because Jeanne said innocently, "I don't see anything." Brad yelled, "Put down the binoculars!," Jeanne did, just as the oncoming herd swerved hard left, missing us by 20 feet (6.5m). They kept running.
We stood in a cloud of dust, looking at each other. Frankly, there isn’t much left to say after a near-death by pronghorn stampede experience. And who would believe it, anyway? But, I don't think I have ever seen anyone's eyes quite as big as Jeanne's at that moment.
CSI for Wildlife - A “How To” Lesson From Dr. Jim Halfpenny
Dr James (Jim) Halfpenny explains how to “read” a wolf skull for details about its life. Image. ©Cheryl Pierce, an Exploring Woman!
Watching wildlife is fabulous, but to better understand the wolves and ecosystem, our Winter Wolf Trek includes private lectures by experts in the field. One took us to Dr. Jim Halfpenny's Track Education Center and Museum. Dr. Jim, who has studied predator forensics for over 50 years, explained techniques for "reading" tracks, bones, scat (poop), and other evidence. All of which tell a story.
The day after our meeting, our guide, wildlife biologist Brad Bulin, brought us to a wolf kill site.
Under a glorious blue sky, we trekked up a windy juniper and sage dotted hill, snow crunching under our boots. All around, a myriad of signs gave the lie to the feeling that we were alone.
Finally, in a depression on the far side of the hill, I glimpsed stark white bones, the skeletal remains of a young bison.
Elk is the wolf's preferred prey. Yellowstone is home to over 5000 bison, and an average of 10 wolf packs. (A pack can range from 2 to 10 or more adults, subadults and pup.) A single wolf cannot kill a bison and few of its packs ever develop the skills necessary to overcome a bison's size, strength, and hide that's practically impervious to wolf bites. So, what happened here?
Brad gave us time to investigate – then he tested us on Dr. Jim's information.
Sleuthing at a Wolf Kill
The horn's base radius, smaller than its eye socket, told us she was female. The skeleton's overall size suggested "youth" – but not an infant. Its teeth indicated about three-years. Old enough not to be especially vulnerable – or tempting – to a wolf. Hmmm.
The skull, neck, and spine seemed healthy. The bones of two legs had been carried off by the wolves or coyotes. One of the remaining legs had strong, straight bones, and expectedly worn (two) toes on the hoof.
We found the second leg’s femur bone in two pieces. Wolves break open bones to access protein-rich marrow, thick and white in a healthy animal. But at the end of a long Yellowstone winter, pink, gelatinous marrow would imply starvation. This young bison's marrow was white. She was not hungry.
Brad picked up the second leg's foot section. One toe showed normal wear – but the second was nearly pristine. Mystery solved. This little lady was lame.
Ask about next year’s Exploring Women’s Winter Wolf Trek.
Unable to move as quickly as the herd, she was vulnerable to an experienced pack. But her short life was not in vain – further forensic sleuthing showed that she'd helped both wolves and a plethora of others get a few days closer to spring.
Our friend said that we were going to dance with wolves, and it is true that our hearts danced with every encounter, even if our layers prevented much graceful movement. Breda, Noreen, Cheryl, me, Roberta Kravette, and Jeanne, - the women of the the First Annual Exploring Women’s Winter Wolf Trek.
Our Wolf Trekking Week Was Nearing its End.
We'd seen a beautiful young grey female near here the day before. Recently dispersed from her pack, #1228 trotted, bold and elegant, parallel the road near the tree line. Brad said she was probably joining her beau, a shy black male from deep inside the park.
Today, on a hillside near that area, we found a pair of coyotes gorging on the remains of a young elk. We were excited that the new pack had had a successful night, but we thought the wolves must have moved on.
A movement above the coyotes caught our eye. We looked up in time to see a face looking down at the scene, its body hidden by the hill. It was there for just a split second. Then, like a ghost, female wolf #1228 was gone.
Yellowstone is always full of wonders to explore. But we Exploring (and usually warm-preferring) Women agree that when the park is covered in sparkling white, when ice crystals swirl in the cold, dry air, when the silence is broken only by crunching snow or the occasional howl carried by the wind, at this time
Yellowstone is pure magic.
The alumni of the First Annual Exploring Women’s Winter Wolf Trek: Cheryl, me, Roberta Kravette, Breda, our guide, Brad Bulin, Jeanne, and Noreen. Image: ©Destination: Wildlife Interested in becoming an Exploring Woman next year? Let’s talk